1896: Don’ts For The Summer Girl

In July of 1896, the St. Louis Post-Dispatch published a handy reference, meant to remind the city’s young women of their social and personal safety rules. Interesting that they all began with the word “don’t.”

This was the extreme limit of the formalized Victorian fashion age. A quick look at the prevailing womens’ styles of that summer reveals nothing but layers of fabric covering strange accessories like bustles and hip pads. Waists were pinched tight and wire hoopskirts then ballooned out a woman’s base. Shoulders looked like nothing we’d see again before the NFL.

Prescriptions ran to the smallest detail. One was free to express herself with earrings, but should avoid the “barbaric” look:

So let’s review the behavioral guidelines of what not to do in the summer of 1896.

Don’ts For The Summer Girl

Don’t giggle

Don’t listen to scandal

Don’t play on the hotel piano

Don’t sleep all day and dance all night

Don’t forget that an hour of exercise is worth more than all the nerve tonics in the world

Don’t forget that the summer veranda is the happy hunting ground for merciless gossips

Don’t make your beau fasten your shoes more than seven times a day. The novelty wears 

It’s easy to find other highly questionable advice, written by well-intentioned but unenlightened experts. For example:

Blame the French

The decrees in women’s fashion came each spring from Paris. Regardless of climate, this lead was followed as closely among the wealthy as possible. It involved a lot of crimping here and padding there.

Because skirt fabrics were heavy and full, hoops radiated from the wearer, to keep the skirt plumped out and full. As the back of the skirt tended to drag, the bustle added volume to the small of the back, lifting that part of the skirt.

Full Disclosure

The ancient Romans had a maxim: “Semper ubi sub ubi,” which literally means “Always where underwhere.” We high school Latin aces loved that one. Speaking of high school, the thorny subject of how best to remove a bra was a matter of some speculation. In fact, it may have been one of the seven mysteries of life at that time. It’s what made Monty Python so relevant and funny to 15 year old boys.

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxJLsMcUOjlV3g2ypBvCIAz8cCgNEPghYL

The late 19th century was so buttoned up that getting down to basics must have seemed as challenging as wrestling in a full laundry basket.

Moving mercifully forward

The remarkably strict dress code and restrictive social conventions of 1896 helped provoke the long reaction that became the women’s emancipation movement. It seems odd today that society would fall for this kind of market tyranny. Mores are strong, however. Witness the uprising occurring in Iran now, with women removing and burning their hijabs in large rallies. Social movements are like rude awakenings. Welcome to the 21st century.

Many do’s have replaced these many don’ts, and summer in general has to be more pleasant without dragging 15 pounds of fabric around. All else aside, it always feels invigorating to give one’s skin some sun and fresh air.