1895: Gibson Proposes A Green City

Sir Charles Gibson and landscape architect Maximilian Kern made Lafayette Park something far more appealing than a parade ground and pasture. Gibson was Lafayette Park Commissioner for a quarter century, and authored the legislative acts that established Forest Park.

The great tornado of 1896 spoiled things, knocking down every mature tree in Lafayette Park. Just seven months earlier, Sir Charles wrote a long letter to the Post-Dispatch. In it, he shared his thoughts on forestation of the city. This is printed as he wrote it, with little modification. 

Post-Dispatch; October 31, 1895

(The systematic planting and protection of shade trees in residence streets) is an old and favorite scheme with me. Shade and water are invaluable in a climate like ours. They add to the beauty, comfort and health of the people.

Some years ago the Post-Dispatch advocated the passage of an ordinance requiring the streets to be watered by the city. It was a long hard pull for the paper, but the utility of the measure is now almost universally conceded. Several showers a day over several hundred miles of streets make the city cooler than in the country. They relieve it of dust and prevent injury to dry goods and other property. The return is twenty times the cost of watering the highways. 

Planting trees along the streets by the city would give a uniformity and beauty that can never be achieved otherwise. The shade would tend to cool the city, and the influence of the foliage would be beneficial to health. Where trees are planted by individuals it is all done in patches. Some put in one kind of tree, and some put in others. Few citizens understand what trees to select or how to plant them, and often they are greatly imposed upon.

From Google Gemini.

Then again, when a man buys a lot and builds a house he improves his yard and plants his own trees. Meanwhile, the proprietors on either side of him leave theirs unplanted. They expect to sell their lots without the expense or trouble of obtaining trees. The man who improves his place is given no credit by these proprietors, although their own property will be enhanced by the improvements. 

I think the Board of Public Improvements should be authorized to designate streets to be planted. A bureau of forestry should be established in the office of the Park Commissioner. It should select and plant the trees on such streets. 

Sir Charles then described a similar and successful effort in Washington DC. 

There is an evil in this regard that ought at once to be attended to. One-half of the few trees already planted have been destroyed by horses being hitched to them. There is an ordinance fixing a penalty for any injury done to a shade tree. It is practically useless though, because the informer gets no reward for prosecuting the offender. This should be changed, making the penalty not less than $5.00, and giving one-half to the informer. The evil would at once be remedied. 

There is one matter about the sprinkling ordinance that also needs attention. As it now stands separate tax bills are made out for the most trivial amounts. Numbers of them are for less than one dollar. They have all to be paid separately and are liens upon the property taxed. This is a good thing for the City Hall crowd. It must employ a number of clerks and other persons to go through all the machinery of entering taxes in the books, making out the bills, receiving them and forcing liens by law if necessary. Taxes for sprinkling and assessments  for planting shade trees should be put in and made part of the expense mentioned.

I think if trees were planted on all residential streets by the city itself they would add almost as much to the grandeur of the city as the parks themselves, great and beneficial as the parks are. 

Gibson residence; Lafayette at Waverly Place, across from Lafayette Park.

I was one of the first Park Commissioners in St. Louis, having been appointed in 1852. There were but a few small parks in the city then. In 1852 Stephen D. Barlow lived near me here, and he and I had an interview in this house. We discussed the improvement of what is now Lafayette Park and was then known as the Parade Ground. It was then outside the city limits. There was a forest between here and the city. Not a house in the town could be seen from my front door. About one-third of the northern part of the park was then fenced. It was held by Patrick M Dillon’s estate under the MacKay claim. I made an arrangement with the trustees of the estate, and the fences were removed. 

Lafayette Square Park; 1860

Mr. Barlow and myself selected the name Lafayette Square. It came from the portion of the city east of it being known as “French Town.” Lafayette was a name popular with both Americans and French. At that time the park was considered large enough for all the future wants of the city. The name suggested was adopted by the City Council, except that ‘park’ was substituted for ‘square.’

For 25 years afterward I had much to do with the improvement of this park. We made various attempts to enlarge it, but always failed. This was due to the beer houses opposition to it. The park drew off many of their customers, especially on Sundays.

About 20 years ago the demands for a great park were so pressing that several gentlemen, of whom I was one, undertook to establish Forest Park. We failed to get one bill through the Legislature. When a second bill passed, it was then defeated by Mr. Chouteau and others in the courts. We finally succeeded in passing a bill which was held to be valid after fierce litigation from the same quarter. The members of the Legislature from that northern and southern portion of this city declined to support the bill unless parks were also established in their sections of the city. This was finally agreed to by myself and friends. Carondelet and O’Fallon Parks were established in this way. 

At that time there was not a horse car nor a ‘bob-tail’ running anywhere near Forest Park. Not a house in the city could be seen from it. Many of our best citizens considered it a monstrous oppression. For instance, Mr. Garard Allen wanted to sell it out for a cemetery. The cable and electric roads, which have been since invented, have made the three parks accessible to the masses. The tax in the neighborhood  of Forest Park now pays the interest on the bonds issued for its purchase and improvements. They will soon, if set apart for that purpose, create a sinking fund which will pay the principal. Thus, the city gets the park for nothing. 

Forest Park today; from Forest Park Forever.

But still greater improvements are now being perfected in urban transportation. The population is rapidly growing beyond the city limits. When I came to St. Louis 7th Street was the west boundary. The city was then extended to 16th Street, then again to Grand Avenue, and lastly to the present limits, a distance of six miles from 7th Street. Each time it was supposed that the extension embraced enough territory for generations to come. But the people here do not live like they do in Europe. There is no use in comparing St. Louis with London, Paris or Berlin. Our people want to escape the smoke and confusion of the city proper. They will soon stretch out over the central parts of the country. 

The little parks in the center, and the cordon of large pleasure grounds made by Carondelet, O’Fallon, and Forest Parks, accommodate the present city. But there is a new St. Louis which begins to dawn upon us. In the not distant future it will have to be provided for. To obtain large public grounds one has to look far ahead. There is great difficulty in getting people to act because they do not see the future. It is as bad to be out of sight before as behind. But there should be another circle of parks for the new and greater St. Louis. It is time to consider how to acquire them. 

Fifteen years ago I wrote a bill and sent it to one of our Congressmen. It proposed to set aside Jefferson Barracks as a public park forever, but it was neglected and did not pass. The government is now more liberal in the establishment of great national parks on the battlefields. Jefferson Barracks has been the greatest base of military operations in all our wars for the 50 years past. It has been more important to the military glory and preservation of the Government than Shiloh, Gettysburg, or any other battlefield in the country. It contains 1,750 acres, which would make it larger than Forest Park.

(Jefferson Barracks) was originally a part of the Carondelet Commons, unjustly wrung from the village by the Secretary of the Interior. He refused to confirm the Commons until the villages relinquished its title to the barracks. So the city has a certain moral claim to it. The soldiers would only be an ornament and not a detriment to the park. With a little pressure upon our Congressmen they would pass a bill setting Jefferson Barracks aside as a public park. It would be under the control of the War Department as are similar national parks. 

Creve Coeur Park

It is time to consider the acquisition of a large park in the Southwest. Another should be about Creve Coeur and one more in the Northwest. This would constitute a second cordon of parks around the greater St. Louis. Ultimately, they would be connected by a boulevard. 

This may seem extravagant to the common mind, but it is far less than the establishment of the three large parks we now have was 20 years ago. 

Mr. Pulitzer, who I regard as the greatest journalist in the world, introduced a new doctrine. It holds that a public journal is not only a medium of news, but also a guardian of public interests and promoter of public welfare. The efforts of the Post-Dispatch that resulted in the passage of the sprinkling ordinance demonstrated this. I ask the paper to persistently advocate for passage of a bill to plant and protect shade trees in the manner indicated. If successful it will render another important service to the public. It will be an act greatly beneficial to the whole city. 

Streetscape along Missouri Avenue in Lafayette Square. Gibson would smile.

The City of St. Louis now has 108 parks, totalling nearly 3,000 acres. Gibson’s vision largely came to pass, from Fairgrounds Park through Forest Park, Tower Grove Park, Carondelet Park and Jefferson Barracks. It forms a belt near what were once the outskirts of the city. St. Louis County has an additional 75 parks, comprising approximately 12,700 acres.

Great Rivers Greenway works in real time to connect all the area park infrastructure into pedestrian and bike-friendly trails. We all get to breathe a bit easier, and learn the joys of slow discovery around St. Louis. It is worthy of your financial support.

It all began with the 30 acre tract that Lafayette Square surrounds. That, and the determination of one man to keep it beautiful.

Lafayette Park; Eric Frazier; 2015

The original article appeared in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch of October 31, 1895

Background on Charles Gibson from Old And New St. Louis; James Cox; Central Biographical Publishing; 1894.

St. Louis City parks map from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:St_louis_city_parks_map.jpg

I recently wrote about street watering, a big issue in its day. All you need to know, here: https://lafayettesquarearchives.com/1887-street-sprinkling-in-st-louis/

A good introduction to Great Rivers Greenway and source of my graphic map is here: https://www.stlpr.org/economy-business/2013-11-01/whats-the-great-rivers-greenway-district

A good introduction to Jefferson Barracks, and source of my photo: https://invitational.hancock.k12.mo.us/jefferson-barracks-history/

Gibson got his way with a park in Creve Coeur as well. The guy had vision, and the county had the collective wisdom to follow it. https://www.islands.com/2219566/creve-coeur-lake-missouri-second-largest-natural-lake-urban-gem-woodland-trails-olympic-history/

Forest Park Forever is a group dedicated to the preservation and improvement of St. Louis’s premier park. In addition to being lovely, it’s loaded with free attractions. It also is deserving of your support. https://www.forestparkforever.org

1870: Lafayette Park Rock Garden

What you see today

Near the park gates on the western side of Lafayette Park lies a sunken area hemmed by river birch trees and lined with flagstones. It is lovely in the summer, shady and a bit cooler than the area around it. We call it the rock garden.

It has both history and a little mystery, all its own.

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1947: Lafayette Park. Alfaro’s Last Resort

Joseph Alfaro was a truck driver during the postwar years in St. Louis. He and his family sublet two rooms of an apartment from another family on Park Avenue. After three years of this arrangement, the landlord decided the house wasn’t safe with four adults and twelve children in four rooms. The Alfaros were asked to leave.

Alfaro quit his job as a truck driver to look full time for another place to live. Now they had neither a paying job nor a home of their own. They sold their furniture to ensure that their children had food, and hit the road. A homeless man is sad to see, but a homeless family of ten is a tragedy in the making. Joseph and his wife had eight children, ages fourteen years to four months, to consider.

Seeing no alternative, and too proud to beg, the family took to camping in Lafayette Park in mid-August, 1947. After their first night in the park, a Third District police officer found them lodging at the nearby Salvation Army, where they slept for a week.

With their allotted time gone, the Alfaros returned to Lafayette Park. The park superintendent offered to take up a collection to help feed them, but Joseph declined, saying he didn’t want money, just a place for his family.

You have to give kids credit. Over a five day park residency they made the best of the situation.

With old comforters their only camping equipment, they played around the park bandstand, in the shadow of Thomas Hart Benton, famous Missouri statesman. “They are all eaten up with mosquitoes, but they do enjoy themselves during the day, wading in the park pond,” said Mrs. Alfaro.

St. Louis Star and Times; August 26, 1947

Both the St. Louis Star and Times and Post-Dispatch reported on the Alfaro’s situation. The coverage drew the attention of Mr. and Mrs. Alexander Ball, who took the family into their five room home in Maplewood.

Carl J. Reinecke, president of Reinecke Lumber Company also noticed the Alfaro’s plight. He visited the Hall’s home and offered the Alfaro family full access to the empty third floor of a company storeroom on Cass Avenue. The Alfaros were free to shelter in that space rent free until they could find a more permanent lodging.

Reinecke also gave the thirty-seven year old Joseph Alfaro work at his lumber company.

We’re living in difficult times; difficult mostly due to the way our own society works. We say we’re better than this, or this is not who we are, but empathy has become an emotion in shorter supply. I submit this to remind us all of the profound virtue in simply caring about those with less. Those most worthy of our admiration generally do the most while having the least to gain.

Resources

St. Louis Post-Dispatch; August 26 and August 27, 1947

St. Louis Star and Times; August 17 and August 29, 1947

1860: Lafayette Square on First  

Baseball by Currier and Ives; 1866

A college game moves west

A little known aspect of Lafayette Park history involves its role in expanding our national pastime. In the 1850’s, the mansion of Edward Bredell Sr. stood directly across from the park on Lafayette Avenue. Edward Sr. made his fortune in mining and dry goods wholesaling. He later established the Missouri Glass Company as an enterprise for his son to manage. Edward Jr. attended Brown University, where he likely was introduced to New York rules baseball. Games involving balls and bats in various forms have been described as early as the 1820s, but the New York game was well defined and quickly gained popularity in that area

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1894: Keep Off The Grass

In the Gilded Age of the 1890s city parks often hewed to the same starchy formality as was expected of a polite society. Lafayette Park was a strolling park, with pedestrians expected to keep to the graveled pathways. Those who chose to stray onto lawns and flower beds could find themselves confined to the police substation (today’s park house) for an hour, to ponder their errant ways.

This stuffy policy informs a poem which appeared in the St. Louis Globe-Democrat 130 years ago, in February of 1894. Reprinted for your enjoyment here:

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1903: Photos From Lafayette Park

Today’s feature is a recently discovered photo collection – about 45 images of Lafayette Park. They date from sometime after the great tornado of 1896. The trees were slowly reestablishing themselves by 1903. Although the twister took out virtually every old growth tree, some of the smaller ones bent enough to survive the storm. The loss of canopy provided an unintended benefit for today’s observers, however. We get a more unobstructed view of the streets and homes surrounding the park. Close inspection has its rewards. 

Mississippi Avenue and Park Avenue; 1903
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1888: Views Of Lafayette Park

Lafayette Park Lagoon – 1888

The 1888 book Commercial And Architectural St. Louis was both city travelogue and advertisement for its many commercial enterprises. It contains some intriguing drawings of Lafayette Park from the late 1880s. Consider that these images pre-date the Great Cyclone of 1896. That cataclysm wrecked much of the neighborhood and everything in the park but the statues and Park House.

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2020: A Walk In Lafayette Park

I recently took a look at an enlarged view of Lafayette Park, and came away pretty amazed at what the map recognized. 

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1859: Lafayette Park and Krausnick

Sometimes the research for a historical essay seems linear enough, but then pinballs off at unanticipated angles. I set about to simply find some background on Edward Krausnick, the little-remembered first superintendent of Lafayette Park. What followed is a reminder that real lives seldom follow a linear narrative.

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1867: The Lafayette Park House

1874; Missouri Historical Society; photo by Robert Benecke

Crowd management in the park

This victorian home in miniature was built as a single story police station in 1867, around the same time as the fence surrounding Lafayette Park. It was a field office of sorts for the main Soulard Police Station. Police stationed here dealt with the large crowds routinely drawn to events like Thursday concerts. These were held at the bandstand, the ruins of which remain to the northwest of the Park House. In 1873, the Daily Globe reported: “It has been rare that a fine day has called out less than five thousand people to listen to the music.” Historian John Albury Bryan noted,“crowds on Sundays exceeded those of Thursdays.” He quoted the St. Louis Republican from May 23 1877. “Visitors to Lafayette Park on Sunday, between 1pm and 6:45 pm totaled 13,749.” 

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